Simon Wittenberg heads to D&D London’s 100 Wardour Street to dine in the company of mellow tunes and Soho’s unrelenting spirit of fun and indulgence.
I have to admit that I am a fan of D&D’s portfolio of restaurants, having previously visited Quaglino’s, Avenue, Madison and Sauterelle. All have proved superb in their offering, and 100 Wardour Street was yet another eatery that certainly didn’t disappoint.
I was always taught to “never judge a book by its cover”, and it was certainly the right approach to take at 100 Wardour Street. From the roadside, the restaurant and bar, which opened in January 2016 on the former site of the Marquee Club, does not look extensive.
However, as you walk in, you are greeted by a nice open space divided between the lounge, a relaxed area with fake grass and some alcoves, perfect for catching up with friends or doing some work over a chilled drink, and a separate bar.
The newly-appointed Executive Chef, Kim Woodward, now oversees the new menu at street level, bringing her extensive 19 years’ experience to 100 Wardour Street, thanks to working with the likes of Gordon Ramsay, the Savoy Grill and Skylon.
The long sweeping staircase leads you down to the Restaurant & Club (which we thought had a similar vibe to Quaglino’s), and you are welcomed with a vast expanse that boasts ambient lighting, a small stage and a countless number of tables that can accommodate around 100 people at a time.
It was interesting to see that the guests were mainly groups of women on the night that we visited, which is a common feature apparently, as this venue has a focus on creating a safe environment and avoiding the break out of any possible trouble on their premises courtesy of the male species.
The choice of cocktails at 100 Wardour Street is extensive and is split into a series of eras. There is also a separate menu named “The 7 Deadly Sins of Soho”, where beverages are priced at £7 each.
My other half picked the sin “Envy”, which was made from London No.1 gin, Curaçao liqueur (which uses the dried peel of the Laraha citrus fruit), Chartreuse Green liqueur (made from herbs), lime, pineapple, and egg white and grapefruit soda to deliver a green-coloured beverage served in a plastic jar.
I wasn’t feeling so adventurous, and if anything doesn’t take your fancy, you can also opt for one of the more traditional cocktails. I, therefore, resorted to my “go-to”, a Piña Colada presented in a ceramic Inca-style receptacle with a pineapple leaf and glacier cherry.
Both were excellent, and combined with some fresh bread and a generous portion of green olives, these were a great accompaniment for the purposes of menu perusal.
There are two set menus on offer (£33 for two courses and £36 for three), with around seven different options to pick from for each course. Sides are an extra, as you would expect, with some dishes also carrying an additional supplement.
When it comes to the portion sizes at 100 Wardour Street, looks can indeed be deceiving as the dishes are not plentiful in their appearance but are relatively filling. A couple of sides, however, are still recommended to feel adequately full.
For my starter, I headed for one of my all-time favourites, Burrata, which was topped with a sprinkling of olive oil and surrounded by marinated artichokes, black olive tapenade, small pieces of croutons and sliced Torperdino tomatoes. It was heavenly.
My other half tucked into a delicious and crunchy mixed quinoa and cauliflower tabbouleh salad which was garnished with pieces of hazelnut and cranberries. All disappeared quickly.
After being asked out of courtesy whether we were ready for our mains, or wanted a short pause, (which does not happen very often in today’s times), we decided to continue proceedings.
Next to arrive was the moist Loch Duart salmon, which was garnished with a chargrilled scallion and was sat on a bed of mangetout and spinach. Joined by a subtle citrus sauce and some roasted chickpeas for added décor, plus some salty triple-cooked chips (£5) and tangy Bloody Mary ketchup, it was a well-concocted and flavoursome dish, if a little uninspiring.
My guest, being a carnivore, opted for the sumptuously tender rump of lamb with pieces of carrots and mangetout and substituted the summer vegetables with some onion rings and a helping of green beans with caramelised red onion and morsels of chilli (also a £5 extra). It was yet another success.
On to the final course, and I was torn between the chocolate delice with whiskey whipped cream and the chocolate fondant, but the latter won my taste buds and it turned out to be a good choice.
Serenaded by the song “My Girl” from the stage, I broke into the dessert, and the chocolate sauce proceeded to seep out of the casing and combine seamlessly with the cool pistachio ice cream, which was topped with a thin caramelised crisp – it was utterly divine.
With my dining partner being dairy-free, the kitchen conjured up a fresh fruit platter as a nice alternative to sorbet, which went perfectly with my other half’s refreshing French 86 virgin cocktail (£8), concocted from seed lip non-alcoholic spirit, champagne and hibiscus syrup, lemon and mixed green. It was an interesting recipe and got better as you made your way down the glass.
100 Wardour Street certainly does pull out all the stops in terms of the cuisine, and the service was excellent throughout, attentive yet not overbearing.
This is a venue that deserves success, and if you are looking for a restaurant which has the added element of entertainment and that surpasses your expectations of what you see at first glance, then this is certainly the place to be.
100 Wardour Street – Where and How?
For more information or to make a reservation at 100 Wardour Street in London, visit www.100wardourst.com.