Ong Chin Huat sits down with Francisca Turner, the owner and creative director of the socially-conscious brand Frankitas, to discuss ethical fashion and why she decided to start a fashion label.
As a former reporter and marketing head for a few publishing and media agencies, Francisca Turner Shaik travelled extensively to all four corners of the globe for her job. While reporting on social, economic and financial news, she was also an avid collector of textiles.
“I’m a hoarder of fabrics and ancient textiles as I find it’s technique complex and almost an art form,” she says in her showroom in Damansara Heights in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
After getting married and having three kids, Francisca left the corporate world because, as a wife and mother, she needed to be in full control of her own time to juggle family and work.
Fast forward to today and Francisca is the founder and creative director of socially conscious slow fashion brand Frankitas – an amalgam of her nickname ‘Franki’ and ‘tas’ which means bag in Indonesian.
With striking colours and contemporary designs, a Frankitas bag represents more than just an eye-catching fashion accessory; the fabrics and materials that go into making a Frankitas bag support skilled artisans from countries like Indonesia, Uzbekistan, Africa, India and Malaysia.
And just like the bags and clutches she designs, Francisca is also a blend of international influences herself.
Her father is British, while her mother is Indonesian, and she grew up in Asia, spending most of her time in Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia. She worked in Africa, Asia, Europe & the Middle East.
Explaining the ethos behind her ethically conscious brand and environmentally aware fashion accessories brand, which is fast gaining popularity among the glitterati and fashion flock, Francisca says, “Frankitas produces beautiful designer pieces, where each piece is unique as it is handcrafted by some of the most skilled artisans in the region.
While we take pride in high-quality finishing and attention to detail, we also want to share the spirit behind each piece which is something that is beautiful and at the same time ethically sustaining to the rural communities which make them.”
LM: Tell us about how you became a handbag and accessories designer.
Francisca: I set up Frankitas 5 years ago. I knew I didn’t want to go back to the corporate world as it didn’t fit with my role as a mother of three children.
I needed the flexibility, and at the same time, I also wanted to pursue one of my dreams of designing handbags from all the traditional textiles I had collected over the years.
So, I began the journey with my aunt Titin, who makes all our signature Titin clutches. We started with one design back then, selling them in artisan markets and weekend fairs, and we would sell out completely.
Five years later, we now have about 20 designs under our Frankitas label.
LM: Where did your love of fabrics and textiles come from?
Francisca: I grew up in a village in West Java, Indonesia, around batik and ikat fabrics, so I naturally gravitated towards these fabrics for the tradition they hold and what they represent in our culture and community.
We wore batik all the time, both men and women. It was a staple in our closets. So, really, it came naturally since childhood.
LM: What kind of textiles and fabrics were you collecting, and where did you get them from?
Francisca: All sorts, but mostly batik, ikat, tenun, rang rang and songket (a silk brocade). But Ikat is ultimately my favourite.
At the time, I got them mostly from textile markets and souks in Java as well as Lombok. Some were also family hand-me-downs.
LM: Why did you start your label, Frankitas?
Francisca: Frankitas came about after I had my three children. I wanted to be both, to be a mother and have my own business.
I wanted to create a brand that resonates very much with my passion for traditional art – using traditional textiles, which is something I am passionate about as it reminds me of my Indonesian heritage and takes me back to the eight years of my childhood in a Javanese village in Bogor, Indonesia.
I wanted to communicate the emotion and love of my village through traditional textiles. And that’s how Frankitas was born.
LM: Tell us about Frankitas bags and clutches and the spirit behind them.
Francisca: Not every bag is the same, and this is because each one is handmade by our bag makers. Every bag represents the culture, heritage and craftsmanship of our weavers.
Moreover, each bag is named and dedicated to the people that are dear to me. I name them after my children, my Frankitas team and close friends.
LM: Where do you source all the beautiful materials that make a Frankitas bag or clutch?
Francisca: We source our fabrics from Indonesia, Malaysia, Cambodia, and Uzbekistan, as well as India and Africa.
LM: Can you tell us a bit about how some of these traditional handmade fabrics are made?
Francisca: Yes, I can! Ikat, for example, is a traditional hand-woven fabric I use quite a lot of in my best-selling clutch, the Titin.
Ikat is used to describe both the ancient hand-loomed technique and the vibrant textiles produced.
The fabrics use either organic cotton or pure silk through traditional techniques which involve natural plant-based dyes.
They are then hand-woven using traditional methods of weaving with wooden looms, a more environmentally friendly manufacturing process which makes the ikat one of the most eco-friendly fabrics around.
This traditional craft is kept alive in rural settings by passionate artisans who want to pass on these skills to the next generation.
LM: Where are Frankitas handbags and clutches made?
Francisca: Currently, 100% of our bags and clutches are proudly made in Malaysia
LM: Which is the best-selling Frankitas bag so far?
Francisca: Our envelope signature Titin clutch, exclusively handmade by my aunty, Titin as well as the Maren clutch.
LM: Do you plan to sell your brand in other countries?
Francisca: Yes, we plan to focus our expansion plans on the United States as well as South America. We are, in fact, launching our Frankitas US e-commerce site by the 1st of October 2019.
LM: Do you think ethically sourced and sustainably made products can compete in the fickle world of fashion?
Francisca: Yes, it can, and it must, but it will take a lot of time. However, I believe we are now at a tipping point whereby we have no choice but to be ethical and sustainable. Our planet, as well as the people in the supply chain, needs protection and rehabilitation.
We have seen the damage that is currently being done to our environment. It is up to us brand owners and stakeholders to protect it. We can no longer only look at the dollars and cents or close an eye. There must be a balance to restore harmony to the planet.
For further information on Frankitas bags and clutches, please visit www.frankitas.com.
To read more interviews and industry leader profiles, visit our dedicated section here.
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