There’s probably only one country that comes close to being as synonymous with cheese as France is. Cheese production in France is said to date back to the 1200s, predating its rival by about a century. Since then, it has continued to hone its cheesemaking skills, which has put it in a position where it now stands alone. In this feature, we look at where to go to get a first-hand experience of some of the most renowned French cheeses.
France and cheese are inseparable—wine aside, it’s hard to think of a better-known food or beverage product produced by the country.
Admittedly, experiencing fine French cheese is relatively straightforward nowadays, requiring little more than popping into a British deli or upmarket supermarket and parting with some cash. However, the experience of eating fine French cheese this way is nowhere near as fulfilling as it could be.
For the truest experience, fans of the food need to visit their homes firsthand. This way, one will truly understand the skills, history and passion that go into making the finest cheeses.
Many leading nutritionists constantly extoll the virtues of eating cheese because of its impressive nutritional profile. There are many types of cheeses to choose from, and they are not all equal.
I divide cheese into two main categories: those made naturally, the ‘good ones’, and the ultra-processed varieties, which you should avoid at all costs.
A few years ago, I coined the phrase “Cheesiotherapy,” which describes different ways to incorporate cheese into one’s life to benefit health and wellness. This editorial piece is a perfect example of what I originally envisaged.
As a “Cheesiotherapist,” I firmly believe in whole-body benefits. One of the best ways to do this is by treating yourself to healthy cheeses using all your senses. If you want to increase the pleasure by a notch or two, why not combine it with exercising your legs, getting your blood pumping, and breathing lots of fresh air?
In the Cheesiotherapy experience below, I’ll examine some very special varieties of French cheese, discussing their nuances and historic homes.
“La Route des fromages AOP de Normandie”
Just 200 km from the centre of Paris is Normandy, the home of four PDO kinds of cheese. This region is known for its varied coastal walks, beautiful countryside, and multiple heritage sites.
In addition, it draws visitors in with its apple cider, scallops and herrings. The region encompasses four villages, each with its own history and an enormous passion for the cheeses produced there.
Camembert de Normandie PDO
Although Camembert can be made anywhere in the world, Camembert de Normandie PDO is confined to the picturesque commune. There, it benefits from unique production methods that intensify the cheese’s flavours and textures.
Livarot PDO
Livarot’s history dates back to Roman times, and it is known for its woodland, riverside, and Calvados apple cider orchards. The yellow-gold-hued Livarot PDO cheese is easy to spot thanks to the strands of straw wrapped around it. Its manufacturing process involves frequent washing, which gives it an intense aroma and a strong flavour with earthy and bitter notes.
The village of Pont-l’Evêque is just 12km from the stunning Deauville-Trouville coast. It is also the setting of Flaubert’s Un cœur simple, so it is well worth a visit for fans of French literature.
Pont-l’Evêque PDO
This square-shaped cheese is pale when young but develops orange and pink hues on the rind as it ages. Soft and creamy with subtle flavours, Pont-l’Evêque PDO is a cheese for those who prefer a milder taste.
Neufchâtel PDO
Neufchâtel-en-Bray is a wonderful Norman village that, due to its strategic location, has seen more than its fair share of battles. Neufchâtel PDO is said to have been shaped into a heart by the young women who worked in the dairies and offered the cheese as a gift to the English soldiers they’d fallen in love with during the Hundred Years’ War.
However, its tender appearance is not reflected in its taste, which is salty and sharp – perhaps typical of many a romance!
If you want to do more Cheeseology research, below are two cheese routes that are well worth a detour.
“Les Routes du Comté – Jura”
A little over two hours from Lyon, with its world-renowned mountain cheeses and stunning scenery, the region of Jura is heaven for cheese lovers. Comté PDO is the best-known cheese in the Jura region. Here, you can while away the hours by visiting farms, fruit groves, dairies and cheese caves. The cheese is complex and versatile and is one of France’s most popular PDOs; it also happens to be a favourite with top chefs worldwide.
You can also explore the region’s cheeses further by trying Morbier PDO, Bleu de Gex PDO, and the famous Cancoillotte.
“La Route d’Auvergne”
La Route d’Auvergne offers a dramatic landscape with valleys, lakes, gorges, and the region’s five PDO cheeses. It is also within three hours of Lyon.
Saint-Nectaire PDO
Saint-Nectaire PDO is a truly unique cheese, as its rind is always irregular and never the same colour. Considered one of the jewels of Auvergne gastronomy, its colour-changing rind envelopes a soft, mild and creamy cheese.
Cantal PDO
Cantal is perfect for those wishing to explore France ‘off the beaten track’. Its Cantal PDO has an ivory-coloured paste encased in a dry rind. With age, the cheese becomes dark yellow, and the rind becomes thicker. As a young cheese, it has a fresh, buttery taste that becomes fruitier and more intense with age.
Fourme d’Ambert PDO
One of the production areas of Fourme d’Ambert PDO is the Puy-de-Dôme at 1968 ft of altitude. Puy-de-Dôme is one of the youngest volcanoes in the Massif Central, and with clear skies, you’ll experience some incredible views.
Fourme d’Ambert is an ivory-white cheese sprinkled with blue and grey spots that form in the holes and some occasional blue veins. It has the familiar musty aroma and salty taste of blue cheese but is well-rounded and balanced on the palate.
The Cheese Salers PDO
One of the most beautiful villages in France, Salers is distinctive due to its dark architecture. It was built with dark grey volcanic stone atop an emerald green fertile landscape. The Cheese Salers PDO is limited in its production from mid-May until mid-November.
A young Salers has a pronounced fresh buttery aroma that melts in the mouth. As the cheese matures, several tastes develop, including spicy, musky, woody and smoky notes – it is a must-try for all cheese connoisseurs!
Bleu d’Auvergne PDO
If you make it up to the Puy-de-Dôme, there is a second blue cheese to savour. Like Fourme d’Ambert, Bleu d’Auvergne PDO can also be made in the neighbouring villages, making them well worth a visit.
The cheese has a thin, moist, yellowish-orange rind with downy white spots. The moist, shiny paste is dotted with grey to green mould, which develops in the cavities. Bleu d’Auvergne’s strong, persistent bouquet and brittle texture contrast with a butter-like melting sensation in the mouth.
The steep landscape might not be the easiest place to work and live, but it has a long history of cheesemaking, with others such as Gaperon (flavoured with cracked peppercorns and garlic) to savour. There’s much to discover in the land of cheese, and if you manage to cover all three routes, you will probably deserve an Olympic medal!
If you want a fantastic French cheese experience, we can heartedly recommend Mouse & Grape. They offer an extensive range of cheese and wines, which can be purchased standalone or in hampers. You can see their full range at www.mouseandgrape.com.
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