You know that feeling at fine dining restaurants when you don’t know when the actual main is coming after eating plate after plate of fanciful food? Well, you’ll get nothing of the sort at Hawthorn in Kew Village. There’s nothing pretentious about this joint. What you are guaranteed, though, is great food cooked and presented exceptionally well, as Luxurious Magazine’s Sabi Phagura found out.
It was a Sunday afternoon, and Hawthorn, just a minute’s stroll from Kew station and six minutes from Kew Gardens, was full to bursting, as one may expect at this time of year. But I learned from good authority that the restaurant is pretty much like this most of the time.
A scan of the elegant minimalist bright and airy dining space with the occasional colourful art piece adorning the walls and its floor-to-ceiling windows, its well-heeled clientele gives off the vibe that the eatery is a friendly neighbourhood haunt.
Hawthorn took over from the popular Glasshouse, which ran for 23 years before its closure last September. While the menu may have changed, when it comes to the decor, the new owners have changed very little– opting to keep the one-floor dining space as it is. Not even the tables and chairs have been replaced. The focus is entirely on the food.
With 13 years of experience cooking in Michelin-starred restaurants such as Kitchen W8, Murano by Angela Hartnett, and La Trompette, Joshua utilises his experience as a classically trained chef to whip up culinary delights to wow the senses. You can expect everything from the bread to the sauces to be organic and cooked from scratch.
Talking of which, a basket of warm sourdough bread duly arrived with a side of cultured butter served on a polished grey pebble while my guest Andi and I perused the festive-themed menu given the time of dining.
A heavenly plate of cured Orkney scallops and seabream with smoked oyster and citrus dressing, sea herbs and horseradish granita was bought to me while my guest Andi was presented with a tartare of Wiltshire fallow deer – complete with smoked yolks, Jerusalem artichokes and bitter leaves.
Aesthetically sublime, both dishes may have been, but they were way more than that. The flavours were distinctive yet worked together in harmony. I’m not sure exactly what spin Joshua and his team put on them, but I was pleased I’d held back on devouring the entire contents of the breadbasket before the starters arrived. The provisions were essential for mopping up the delicious dressing from my plate.
While the staff are personable, knowledgeable and professional, they’re also incredibly friendly, which can make all the difference at a restaurant of this calibre. Dan, our smartly dressed waiter, was incredible and checked up on us in a not-too-dissimilar way to how a close friend would, had you gone to their home for a meal.
Michal, our sommelier with seven years of experience, knew exactly what wines would keep Andi happy with his three courses. Previously not a wine connoisseur, I think my housemate has now developed a slight penchant for red wine.
A small selection of non-alcoholic mocktails are available on the drinks menu, but I chose to stick to water, preferring to focus solely on the food. Hawthorn offers corkage, too, should diners wish to bring a special bottle with them. But do check ahead with the staff for date and time restrictions.
Keeping with the fish theme, I tucked into the Fillet of Gigha Halibut as my main with dill gnocchi, Cornish crab, braised fennel and pickled cucumber. Again, my senses were wowed by the intricate details from the mix of flavours.
The roast rib of 28-day aged Hereford beef complete with beef fat roast potatoes, crushed swede, drizzled with red wine gravy, and a side of truffled cauliflower cheese was nothing short of a posh Christmas dinner for Andi. While he busied himself devouring his main, I helped myself to the cauliflower – ’tis the season for sharing after all, I reasoned. Truffle, I may add, is my weak point.
If you have a weak spot for festive-themed pudding, head to Hawthorn’s for this alone. Served with Guinness ice cream, you’ll be leaving the plate clean. The Valrhona 70 per cent choc souffle with orange curd and pistachio ice cream is not to be shunned either if you feel the need for a rich indulgent dessert.
One visit is certainly not enough at Hawthorn. Joshua and his team regularly make tweaks to the menu depending on the availability of produce. It is, however, a special-occasion restaurant, which is not a bad thing. After all, food is always at the centre of any celebration. And when it’s as good as Hawthorn’s, it makes any celebration, big or small, that extra special.
Hawthorn – Where and How?
Hawthorn can be found at 14 Station Parade, Kew, London. You can find information on Hawthorn and book a table at www.hawthornrestaurant.co.uk.
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