Simon Wittenberg takes a seat in “The Restaurant” to enjoy the opulent surroundings and gastronomy of the historic and exclusive Club in London’s Marylebone.
Entering through a discrete black front door simply bearing the number 20 in a row of terraced Georgian townhouses overlooking Portman Square reveals a spectacular private members’ club steeped in history dating as far back as 1773.
Opened just over 25 years ago in 1998, Home House boasts a number of spaces and amenities, giving members access to two restaurants, five bars, lavish party and dining rooms, outdoor balconies, a boutique gym, a spa, twenty-three bedrooms, and “The Vaults” underground club.
The majestic spiral staircase, which rises up towards a glass dome lined with spectacular artworks and antique world globes, is one of the centrepieces of Home House, and it’s worth stopping off to admire its splendour.
Climbing up an adjacent staircase, and it’s here that you’re greeted with “The Restaurant”, furnished with curved banquettes lined with intricate patterned fabric, a series of original abstract artworks, and a large open fireplace. Thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows, members and their guests can dine with views overlooking the pristine gardens of the Square below.
The Restaurant celebrates the very finest of British cuisine, and the subject of our review was Sunday lunch.
On weekends and bank holidays, there’s the benefit of children being allowed in, and a separate menu for little eaters can be provided, featuring the likes of battered fish and thick-cut chips, which is what our son enjoyed. In fact, on a Sunday, there is a specific menu starting from midday, which sits alongside the regular à la carte and the dedicated set menu.
At this 60-seater eatery, which is open to members and their guests, diners can enjoy three courses for a very reasonable £30 each (minus sides and other supplements), or two courses for £25, so it’s certainly value for money at such a prestigious address.
The à la carte also has a selection of wine and champagne, with the former spanning a Pinot Grigio, to a Bourgogne Chardonnay.
In addition, there are a few cocktails to pick from, and we decided on the fruity and beautifully-concocted alcohol-free mocktails, namely the “Secret Garden” (made from citrus sherbet, Kaffir lime bitters, thyme, and lemon) and the “Tropical Teaser” (concocted from orange and pineapple juice, orgeat lime syrup, and grenadine).
On a Sunday, there’s a decent amount of choice for each stage of the meal, with the starters taking in the likes of chilled pea soup, smoked salmon with caviar, and Cornish crab.
I headed for the generous portion of Burrata, which came surrounded by heritage tomatoes boasting a trio of colours, whilst braised poached peach quarters created a subtle sweet contrast to the savoury ingredients.
With a dash of olive oil and balsamic vinegar to bring this dish alive, coupled with some slices of fresh sourdough bread, this was a superb entrée.
My other half decided on the Wye Valley asparagus, which arrived dressed with a spot of duck egg emulsion and a flavoursome truffle salad, which impressed from the first bite.
When it comes to all things marine, the “Sea” section of the menu offers spiced monkfish or roasted sea trout, and it was the latter that caught my eye.
Joined by a piping hot and creamy new potato gratin as a side dish (£9), the moist pink fillet, sporting a lightly seared skin, arrived in a bowl surrounded by a rich and buttery sauce bearing finely chopped pieces of chive, alongside small morsels of asparagus, peas, and butter beans. It was an exquisite main, and all ingredients blended together seamlessly.
Although tempted by the leg of lamb, my wife settled on the half-roasted piece of corn-fed chicken, which was a very decent serving, and sides are not really needed here, as this dish comes with Yorkshire pudding and a plethora of roasties, including potatoes cooked in duck fat. Once doused in a little gravy, this was a delicious main, and one that will certainly satisfy the hungriest of appetites.
The final course counts a mouth-watering line-up of enticing desserts, alongside the sole savoury option of a cheeseboard. Even though I was tempted by the Tiramisu, I tried the warm slice of Pink Lady apple tarte tatin, a long-time favourite from having lived in the South of France in my youth.
With several layers of thinly sliced apple on a pastry base and combined with the melting ice cream flavoured with Calvados (brandy from Normandy in France), it was exquisite.
As a dairy-free alternative, my other half enjoyed fresh fruit salad and a seasonal raspberry sorbet to round off what had been an excellent meal from start to finish.
Following our departure from The Restaurant, we were also treated to a sneak peek of “The Garden”, a large outdoor courtyard-like space tucked away at the rear of this magnificent property.
Recently reopened for the summer season, and busy with guests on a sunny day, it is lined with a plethora of wooden tables and umbrellas, amongst decorative greenery and shrubs. A gourmet barbecue is also available at weekends, as well as the award-winning Home House gin.
In summary…
With warm and inviting hospitality, coupled with great service, The Restaurant at Home House really is “home from home” and is a worthy reason in itself to join one of the capital’s most prestigious members’ clubs.
It was a privilege to experience one of the several member benefits at this establishment, and to dine “on the house” in what is a haven of luxury and tranquillity set in truly special surroundings.
Home House Private Members’ Club – Where and How?
Home House is located at 20 Portman Square, London W1H 6LW, United Kingdom. For more information, visit www.homehouse.co.uk.
Membership at Home House starts from £1,100 per annum, with a £399 joining fee.
See highlights from our visit on the Luxurious Magazine Instagram page.