Simon Wittenberg enjoys a superb three-course dinner at the recently re-launched Seven Park Place restaurant at the five-star St. James’s Hotel and Club in London.
After a decade of having clientele pass through its doors, the Michelin-starred Seven Park Place by William Drabble at the St. James’s Hotel and Club underwent a complete refurbishment and re-opened on the 12th of November last year.
The result is a sophisticated environment inspired by the Art Deco period, with floral motifs and artwork adorning the walls, whilst a separate wine tasting room was also added during the works.
Having visited this highly acclaimed eatery prior to the renovation, the restaurant has a far more spacious, light and comfortable feel to it, thanks to the use of plush velvet dining chairs and luxurious textiles.
We sat at a round table in a bay window, which looks out on to the central area of Seven Park Place. It’s apparently in such high demand that it’s often requested in advance.
The kitchen remains under the watchful eye of the very talented Executive Head Chef William Drabble (main image), who has overseen all aspects of dining at the hotel for more than 10 years.
He has also been responsible for the new take on some of the restaurant’s signature seasonal dishes in line with the re-launch.
We visited on a Wednesday night, and for dinner, there’s the option of choosing the six-course tasting menu (£110 per head), two courses (costing £65 per person), or three courses (priced at £75 per head) from the à la carte.
Vegetarian and vegan options are available on-demand, and all intolerances and allergies are taken very seriously thanks to everything being freshly prepared.
The other nice touch at this establishment is the pairing of wines to match the flavours of your chosen dishes, although this naturally comes at an additional cost to diners.
Before you really get started with dinner, amuse-bouches are certainly not in short supply here. Our first taste of what was to come was a thin black slate furnished with three different canapés. These were namely salmon tartare with crème fraîche, mackerel with grape chutney, and beetroot, apple and hazelnut perched on an endive salad leaf (by far the hardest one to eat).
This was followed by a delightful bowl of cauliflower and truffle soup, plus some crusty fresh white and brown bread with two small domes of butter. One was salted Bungay raw butter from Suffolk, whilst the other was made with chilli.
The hors d’oeuvres on the à la carte are largely seafood and meat-based, where the listed options count slow-cooked pork, Dorset Blue lobster and roast quail. With my guest and I not able to partake in any of these dishes, we turned our attention to the alternative plant-based menu.
With a crisp fruity Riesling within reach, I tried the spaghetti of courgette. Lying on a bed of tomato sauce and black olives was a near pyramid shape of thin strips of al dente courgette topped with battered courgette pieces, so it was as far removed from the pasta as you could get. It was, however, an interesting concoction and cleverly presented.
So far, I was impressed by the initial gastronomic experience. My dining partner had the equally tasty roast Crottin de Chavignol from the Loire Valley in France – a more pungent version of goat’s cheese is the best way to describe it. Garnished with sliced apple and shredded celeriac, every second of it was enjoyed with a few sips of a French Folie de Roi white.
For the main course, we went back to the regular à la carte, and after some deliberation (options include slow-cooked ox cheek and saddle of lamb), I settled on the mushroom risotto, garnished with interesting ‘trompette de la mort’ or ‘trumpet of the dead’ mushrooms, cèpes and parsley crisps.
Going by its description, risotto can sometimes be quite a tedious and plain dish to indulge in, but the one served by Seven Park Place was anything but mundane.
Accompanied by a drop of dry and citrusy Cecilia Beretta Brognoligo Soave Classico white wine, it was creamy, full of flavour, and filling at the same time, with the only disappointment coming when there was none left to enjoy.
My guest went for a marine option and tucked into the griddled South Coast line-caught fillet of wild sea bass. Prepared with a crispy top layer and a soft interior that had a slight saltiness to it and sitting on a base of braised Jerusalem artichoke, roast potato halves and parsley purée, it was nothing short of exceptional and was surprisingly paired with a light-bodied, fruity and spicy 2016 Castello di Verduno Pelaverga Basadone red.
After another complementary amuse-bouche in the form of white chocolate panna cotta with palate-cleansing grapefruit sorbet and a nice tuile biscuit, dessert swiftly arrived, and both were presented to my guest and me at the same time.
Served on a slate-coloured plate, mine was the chocolate mousse with crushed pieces of hazelnut and mandarin. The delicate chocolate leaves finished it off beautifully and proved to be the pièce de résistance.
Despite hesitating over the passion fruit soufflé with dark chocolate sauce, my dining partner was drawn towards the warm caramelised pineapple, which was complemented by an alcohol-infused and thin sponge-type gateau, dressed in coconut ice cream and smaller cubes of pineapple, amongst other ingredients.
None of it went to waste, and it was yet another magnificent hand-crafted creation from William Drabble and his team.
With us being too full to eat the petit fours thanks to the generous portions and bites provided during the evening, we were handed a doggy bag on our departure, and then all that was left to do was to reflect on what had been a great evening from start to finish.
In summary…
Having clocked up three visits during the last eight years, Seven Park Place remains one of my favourite restaurants in London, an establishment that goes all out to impress with its meticulous attention to detail and efficient service, and where staff make every effort to ensure that you have the best possible experience.
This is a perfect place to celebrate, meet with friends, or enjoy a romantic meal for two, as a memorable occasion is guaranteed.
Seven Park Place by William Drabble – Where and How?
Seven Park Place is located at St. James’s Hotel and Club, 7 – 8 Park Place, St James’s, London SW1A 1LS, United Kingdom.
For more information or to make a reservation, call 0207 316 1615 or visit www.stjameshotelandclub.com.
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