The award-winning underwater Ossiano seafood restaurant is one of five celebrity eateries that can be found at the Atlantis Dubai resort, the crown of the iconic Palm Island. It offers diners floor-to-ceiling views into a huge aquarium and the chance to see stingrays, sharks, and fish glide past their table.
Simon Wittenberg caught up with Chef De Cuisine Grégoire Berger, who has been at the helm of Ossiano at Atlantis, The Palm for the past four and a half years.
LM: Your passion for the culinary arts stems from your grandmother´s cooking. Did she inspire you to want to be a chef from a young age?
Grégoire: My grandmother was a wonderful cook, and yes, I’d say she was the only one to inspire me really.
She used to make this amazing rhubarb tart, and I still remember the smell. It’s my oldest memory.
However, I’d say it was the kitchen that inspired me the most. I know it sounds strange, but from the first moment I walked into a working kitchen, I knew I wanted to be a chef.
Aged 16, I had the opportunity to start as an apprentice at La Closerie de Kerdrain (a gourmet restaurant in Auray created by Martine and Fernand Corfmat]), and walking into that kitchen was like experiencing real magic.
The smell, the hum, the vibrations. I just watched them create this art from simple ingredients, and it blew my mind.
Now, 90% of my inspiration comes from my own life and the lives of the people around me. For example, my daughter was eating this delicious looking peanut, banana and blueberry jam sandwich the other week.
The flavours and texture just worked so beautifully, and she enjoyed it so much that I came in immediately and set about reworking a banoffee pie to replicate the sandwich! It was an absolute masterpiece, inspired by a three-year-old child’s lunch!
LM: During your career, you have worked in France, Morocco, and now Dubai. What have been your highlights to date?
Grégoire: Being listed amongst the top 50 chefs at the Best Chef Awards 2019 takes things to a whole new level. Winning this award has absolutely been a highlight of my career.
I put 100% into everything I do, and professionally I am always seeking to challenge myself, to constantly achieve my goals and consistently raise the bar. Therefore, to be recognised for an accolade of this level was most gratifying to know that my hard work has not gone unnoticed.
To be positioned amongst so many talented chefs that I really admire is a dream come true.
Dubai has also been a real highlight, generally. It’s been the place where I am free to express myself, and with the support of Atlantis, it’s this city that has enabled me to get Ossiano to where it is today.
LM: You received the title of 49th Best Chef in the World by The Best Chef Awards, as well as taking home the ‘Fol-LOVERS’ award for the second year running. This must have been a proud moment for you.
Grégoire: I was so honoured to have won the ‘Fol-LOVERS’ award for the second year running. To be recognised by the public, media and my peers as a deserved winner of this accolade meant so much to me.
With something like this, you don’t just compete with regional peers; you are thrown into the ring with all of the world’s greatest culinary stars, so to come out in the top 50 is mind-blowing.
It also serves as an amazing opportunity to meet and be inspired by the world’s best chefs – such as chef David Muñoz, the creative force behind Madrid’s three Michelin star restaurant DiverXO, and chef Björn Frantzén from Stockholm’s Frantzén/Lindeberg.
LM: How is Dubai’s culinary scene evolving, and what are the latest trends?
Grégoire: The culinary scene in Dubai is still very young. It’s in the process of finding its own personality.
The diversity within the city is fantastic, and very soon, the culinary scene will mature into something well-rounded and confident. It’s been a pleasure to watch it evolve, and diners are becoming more and more open to new ideas and ways of dining.
For example, four years ago, I could never have only served a set/experience menu as we do now.
The vegan/plant-based dietary requirements of guests are also something we see more and more of, and if I’m honest, it’s something we find very difficult to cater for.
Whilst we always try to accommodate food intolerances and allergies, Ossiano is a very unique and niche restaurant and it can be a challenge to make something vegan and not compromise on the dish or taste.
LM: What do you enjoy most about working at Ossiano, and do you ever get tired of watching the marine life?
Grégoire: The bad thing about being a chef is that I only ever see the inside of the kitchen. What is it they say: “The shoemaker always wears the worst shoes?”
However, in the evening, when I come out to greet our guests, the sheer size of the aquarium never ceases to amaze me. I know that it’s here, and I appreciate it, but I just don’t get the time to watch the fish as much as I’d like.
LM: Who is your main clientele, and what are they looking for at Ossiano?
Grégoire: The world. We have 25 tables, and sometimes we have 25 different nationalities in one night. Trying to please all 25 nationalities can naturally be a challenge.
LM: Are there any dishes that are particularly popular?
Grégoire: I am always looking for the visual aspect to define the taste in my dishes. A favourite – both with myself and the diners – is the Croque monsieur, a ham sandwich revisited made with veal ham.
It is served in the shape of a clock with the time going backwards in order to take diners on a path of nostalgia – we are inviting guests to go back through time.
The veal ham is from Italy, and it really is extraordinary. Then there’s the ‘Candle’, which looks like a real table accessory – we even light it! But then we slice through it, and you realise that there is foie gras inside and the ‘candle wax’ is made from the fat of the foie gras.
LM: How often do you change what’s on the menu, and how much autonomy do you have to decide what goes on there?
GB: All three of our experience menus are developed by myself and my team, and we often change dishes in and out based on seasonality and availability.
Our menu is a journey, with each dish crafted to tell a story of my travels around the world.
In most restaurants, you see a menu, you pick a dish, and you order, but a dining experience at Ossiano is entertainment. Expect the unexpected!
LM: What’s next for Ossiano?
Grégoire: From an Ossiano perspective, we will be involved in more Four Hands dinners as they are an invaluable way to learn from each other and to exchange ideas so that we can all grow as chefs.
We will continue with projects that elevate Ossiano to a Michelin star level, and we are also in the process of finessing our branding in order to further elevate our status on the global market. My manager Badr and I are also in brainstorming mode. There are lots of exciting things to come, so watch this space!
LM: Thank you for your time, Grégoire, and we hope to visit Ossiano very soon!
Grégoire: You’re welcome anytime.
Ossiano at Atlantis, The Palm – Where and How?
For more information on Chef Grégoire Berger and Ossiano at Atlantis, The Palm in Dubai, visit www.atlantis.com/dubai/restaurants/ossiano