Cruising into a new port every morning is an adventure that harks back to a more graceful time when travel took longer – and the journey itself was the destination.
After a day’s memorable sightseeing in Rome, I’ve joined Windstar Cruises’ flagship, the Wind Surf, at Civitavecchia port on the Tyrrhenian Sea.
A swift check-in, and I’m already on the yacht’s Star Deck, enjoying a delicious buffet lunch at the Veranda restaurant. Officially the world’s largest sailing yacht, Wind Surf is gleaming white against a blue-blue sky in the hot Italian sunshine.
Her streamlined yachting outline and masts are reminiscent of a golden age in seafaring. She’s spacious with plenty of room for her 310 guests in 154 staterooms: 31 ocean-view suites, two bridge suites and 123 deluxe ocean-view staterooms.
Suite sailing
My own spacious accommodation – suite 501 on the bridge deck – is at the front of the yacht with its own private hallway and entrance off the deck.
Picture windows, a fabulously comfy Queen bed, a generous lounge area with sofa and two chairs, a large widescreen TV/DVD player, iPhone-Pod dock, l’Occitane toiletries, masses of storage space and even a full-size Jacuzzi bath. Plus, separate shower and loo. And the Wi-Fi works. I am in heaven.
Suites 502 and 503 are even larger – perfect if you want to travel with your partner but also enjoy his and hers bathrooms. You can also opt for the expansive option of two lead-in staterooms joined together with the middle wall removed to give you your very own ‘his and hers’ bathrooms, lots of storage space and a large lounge.
Fresh flowers, fruit, a news bulletin – plus a daily cruise program – and pillow chocolates are delivered daily, and my steward, Toar Sahelangi, cleans my room beautifully, delighting the child in me with his array of towel animals.
I’m situated almost under the ship’s funnels, but the engine vibration is strangely comforting and never interrupts my deep sleep. And thanks to stabilizers and mostly calm seas, I never feel ill or discombobulated.
As we assemble after lunch for our first lifeboat muster drill, I notice, to my relief, that there are no children on board. The Wind Surf isn’t equipped with play areas for kids anyway, leaving adults to relax in the spacious lounge areas and on the upper decks. A popular hangout was the Compass Rose bar area with its two Jacuzzis and a small pool.
The dramatic sail away from each port is accompanied by an unfurling of the massive canopies, to the accompaniment of the Vangelis-penned theme from the movie 1492: Conquest of Paradise. A stirring soundtrack that sent shivers through me the first time I heard it.
Food, glorious food
You can dine at any time of day or night in your suite, but I chose to mingle with other guests at all three of the ship’s restaurants during the 8-day cruise: Candles on the Star Deck, Amphora (more formal) and Stella Bistro (French influence).
Breakfast served on the Star Deck at the Veranda was a mix of buffet and à la carte options, including omelettes, tacos, waffles, cheeses and cold cuts. All non-alcoholic drinks are included in the price, but you’ll pay extra for alcohol.
There’s an optional $54-a-day wine tab, but unless you’re a heavy drinker, I recommend buying by the glass.
The weather was so gorgeous I enjoyed lunch every day at the al fresco Veranda restaurant on the top deck – keen to take advantage of the sunshine and amazing views. Again buffet and à la carte options were available with burgers, grilled chicken and meats, salads and desserts. And a great wine list.
The cooking station served daily offerings of roast pork, salmon, lamb and desserts, including ice cream and bread pudding. Too tempting to ignore, my increased food consumption meant regular morning workouts at the gym on the Star Deck.
Very well equipped with Technogym stations, it has wall-to-ceiling glass walls so you can watch the Adriatic pass by as you work off the superb cuisine.
Fresh seasonal ingredients are sourced at local ports daily. I especially enjoyed the scallops from Split where Exec Chef Eddie took us on a tour of the markets, as well a galley tour. He shared his bargaining tips for the tough fish market ladies, “You can always tell a fish is fresh by its clear eyes, and it must be pink inside the mouth”.
I dined one evening with our charming Captain Ricardo Pinzon and his officers – Wilhelm Steinbrunner (Hotel Manager) and Anthony Lapertosa (Guest Services Manager). The standard of service and attention to detail was appreciated by every guest I spoke to, who all spoke highly of the friendly and very professional care we all received from officers and crew alike.
Entertainment
The casino –helmed by Casino Manager Andrea – had sufficient one-armed bandits to keep everyone happy. BlackJack, American Roulette and Three Card Poker were just some of the card games at the tables.
For retail therapy, head to the Signature Shop – a treasure trove of Windstar-branded merchandise (baseball caps to sweatshirts) in addition to high-end jewellery and watches. There was also a selection of daily live entertainment from superb professional singers and backing bands, as well as hilarious offerings from the Captain and crew.
Watersports platform
Weather permitting, there are plenty of toys to be enjoyed at the back of the ship: a trampoline, water mat, single and double kayaks and a speed boat for water skiing. I took the single kayak out for a paddle and loved the sensation of freedom on the water bobbing about next to the giant Wind Surf was so exciting.
Spa services
Cruising is all about relaxation, especially after a walking tour during the day. To ease sore muscles from a vigorous gym workout, I booked a superb Elemis seaweed wrap with deep tissue massage. Extremely relaxing and detoxifying, I had the best night’s sleep for weeks. The Spa also offers facials, acupuncture, scrubs, reflexology and a selection of hair and nail treatments.
Destinations and Excursions
The beauty of a yacht the size of the Wind Surf is her ability to visit smaller ports in the Adriatic that many larger cruise ships cannot reach.
Every evening, we had a superb talk from Voyage Leader Gonzalo about the following day’s port of call and excursions. Not only are the excursions fun, I also found the English-speaking guides shared useful information about each location.
At anchor, lifeboats were used as tenders to ferry us to and from the dock. Surprisingly comfortable and fun, Windstar has a canopied area at each dock with refreshments to cool you while waiting for your return to the ship.
My 8-day magical sail from Rome to Venice was outstanding. Here are just some of the highlights:
Day 1 – Rome
This incredible city needs no introduction. I stayed at the Ambasciatori Hotel. Colonna Palace Hotel opposite the Parliament building.
Arriving just 24 hours before we set sail, I had time to throw a euro into the Trevi Fountains, walk around the Ancient Forum, visit the Colosseum (outstanding), eat ice cream on the Corso, dinner at the xxx restaurant at xx hotel (superb), visit the wedding cake (aka the Altare della Patria) and the Pantheon. If you’re short of time, get a Rome Pass and enjoy a hop-on-hop-off double-decker bus to explore the city.
Day 2 – Amalfi Coast and Positano
We anchored at 9 am in the at Amalfi in the Gulf of Salerno. Stunning coastal mountains drop vertiginously into azure seas. It was a dream made manifest to visit this incredible UNESCO World Heritage site. Amalfi, together with its neighbour Positano and the inland Ravello, are the jewels in the crown of this famous coastline.
I took a pre-booked excursion from Amalfi to Positano by boat. Positano’s Moorish-style houses cling to the slopes around a charming bay.
Our group climbed up the steep streets, shepherded by our ebullient guide Michelangelo, to see the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, which contains the relics of the apostle St Andrew.
You can’t miss it: yellow façade and green, yellow and blue domed-tiled roof is a short climb up from the black sands of Marina Grande beach. The narrow streets are teeming with clothes and jewellery shops, together with art galleries and B&Bs. And luxury hotels like the Le Sirenuse, with its shady pool terrace affording beautiful views of the bougainvillea streets, beach and port below.
It’s the perfect location for a wonderful Italian coffee and the chance to take in the dreamlike quality of this uniquely charming town.
There was also an option for a coach tour to Ravello, a drive up the winding Dragon Valley in the mountains behind Positano. Visit Villas Rufolo and Cimbrone for spectacular views. Other excursions were visits to Ravello and Amalfi and the spectacular ruins of Pompeii.
Day 3 – Giardini Naxos, Sicily
Waking up to see that the Wind Surf anchored in the bay of Taormina at Giardini Naxos was thrilling. I’d been to this part of the island before and stayed at a hotel perched on a cliff in Taormina. Seeing the island from the sea is so romantic.
At the time of arrival, the town of Taormina (adjacent to Giardini Naxos) was being prepared for the arrival of heads of state for the May G7 summit. As a result, the area was crawling with military and police – and plenty of undercover agents, too, eager to sweep before Trump and Melania made their first appearance.
I love Taormina. Built on cliff-top terraces, the amphitheatre is a must-see with superb views over the bay, where we watched with pride the Wind Surf sail out and look very impressive.
Each cruise has a private event – ours was a drive up the slopes of Mount Etna to visit the superb Gambini Vineyards at Linguaglossa. The wine tasting (I loved the reds) comes with local food (olives, cold cuts, dried tomatoes, locally made sausages, pecorino cheeses Superb antipasti, cold cuts and cheeses and bread.
Each dish was carefully explained, and we had the chance to buy wine afterwards. Fog and mist, unfortunately, meant we could see neither Etna nor the coast from our lunch table, but it did ensure that our focus was on the delicious food and wine.
Day 4 – Kotor Montenegro
After a day at sea, we arrived at dawn at the entrance to the channel that leads to Kotor. One of Montenegro’s most beautiful bays, the fjord-like channels are beautiful, especially in the early morning light.
I explored the old town on foot – you don’t really need a guide here – and loved the narrow streets, the churches and the friendliness of the local people. Even a cute dog followed me for a while before I sat down for lunch at Konoba Scala Santa.
Trip Advisor reviews are mixed for this place, but I loved my fish soup, and they were very welcoming. In fact, everyone I met in Kotor was friendly, and prices weren’t the tourist rip-off.
A special highlight was a 1-hour climb to the ruined castle of San Giovanni, which majestically overlooks the old town. It’s a tough ascent on cobbles so you’ll need good walking shoes and water, but the views at the top are worth the workout.
Day 5 – Dubrovnik
Wind Surf anchored directly outside Dubrovnik – giving us all incredible views of this unique walled city – already familiar to fans of Game of Thrones. It was my first visit to the city, and I loved it.
I joined a Dubrovnik City Sights and Cable Car Tour with a young and informative guide who shared his knowledge of the history of the area, mixed with wry observations of current politics. Our energetic walk along the ramparts gave us outstanding views of the azure water below.
Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, we entered the stairs at Pile Gate and had a wonderful walk along the southern part of the wall, passing the Mineta Fortress, St John’s Fortress, Bokar Fortress and the Maritime Museum.
Just a four-minute walk from the ramparts takes you to a 4-minute cable car ride ascending 778 meters to the top of Mt Srdj with its superb Old City and ocean views and a terraced restaurant.
Day 6 – Split, Croatia
We docked about 15 minutes walk from the main town and I joined our talented Executive Chef Eddie for a morning market tour.
Cue much game-playing at the fish market between himself and an austere stallholder who initially was having none of his bargainings. (she later reduced her price).
How can you tell if a fish is fresh – smell aside? The eyes “should be clear and the gills and mouth a pink hue”. And when you’re buying mussels, they need to feel heavy.
The standout attraction in Old Split is the Diocletian Palace. Split Old Town is built on and around this amazing Roman Palace that dates from the 4th century.
A veritable maze of shops, restaurants and even a fashion shoot – the model was wearing the most beautiful lace dress I have ever seen. Other day trip options from the boat included Krka National Park highlights and rafting on the Cetina River.
Day 7 – Rovinj, Croatia
My first trip to the Adriatic and the Dalmatian Coast, I had no idea what to expect in Rovinj and it was gorgeous—one of my favourite destinations on the cruise. Our visit was in the early season, so there were no other ships in the bay and very few tourists. Perfect!
The market on the quayside sold local natural produce, including honey, nuts, fruit-based snacks, oils for cooking and garnishing and even bee pollen.
I walked up to the church via narrow alleyways with their tiny cafes and restaurants perched above rocky outcrops where bathers and swimmers reposed lizard-like on the rocks.
Apparently, Rovinj used to be a tiny island until the channel separating it from the mainland was filled in in the ‘18th Century. It endured 500 years under Venetian rule, so the Italian influence is much in evidence.
Day 8 – Venice
We were due to arrive in Venice at 7 am, but fortuitously, I awoke at 5.30 and went straight out on deck. To see the sunrise over Venice as we sailed slowly and sedately into the Lagoon is a sight I will never forget.
Venice revealing her majesty under a blood-orange sky was breathtaking. We disembarked early and headed for the ideally located Grand Hotel Ambasciatori, where I left my luggage (my flight wasn’t until later that day).
I headed for St Mark’s Square and watched the gondola oarsmen waiting for clients, marvelling at the architecture, before heading back in the opposite direction to the Rialto Bridge (wider than I remembered).
I hadn’t visited Venice since childhood, so returning with a different perspective was magical. It’s still overcrowded and overpriced, but that’s to be expected considering its uniqueness.
My water taxi ride to the airport was incredibly exciting. Combining my joint passions of speed and water, I felt very James Bond as we sped out into the Lagoon, the speedboat bouncing in the wake of other taxis.
We docked at the new water taxi station just a 10-minute walk from the airport terminal, and I was met by a Windstar who kindly walked me to the check-in desk. Superb service all the way with this cruise line, they really do look after their guests.
Travelling by cruise ship is effortless: your floating hotel travels with you – and you are cocooned in luxurious comfort from the outside world.
No stressful airline queues, taxis to hail or trains to catch – or miss. I can see why Windstar has been voted the World’s Best Small Ship Cruise Line by Condé Nast Traveller readers.
I’m still missing the ocean, the sense of adventure and waking up to new sights and sounds every morning.
And I’m missing the wonderful, warm-hearted crew who contributed so much to making each day so special for me. The Windstar experience provides guests with a much more intimate cruise, thanks to its smaller guest numbers and its 1:1 guest-client ratio.
As John F Kennedy once said: “We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether it is to sail or to watch – we are going back from whence we came.” I completely agree.
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The Wind Surf stats
- CAPACITY: 310 Guests
- STATEROOMS: 122 deluxe ocean-view staterooms
- SUITES: 31 deluxe ocean-view suites
- BRIDGE DECK SUITES: 2 deluxe ocean view bridge suites
- DECKS: 6 decks
- CREW: 201 international staff
- SHIP’S REGISTRY: Bahamas
- LENGTH: 535 feet (162 meters) at the waterline; 617 feet (187 meters), including bowsprit
- DRAFT: 16.5 feet (5 meters)
- TONNAGE: 14,745 gross registered tons (grt)
- BEAM: 66 feet (20 meters)
- SAILS: 7 triangular, self-furling, computer-operated sails with 26,881 square feet (or 2,600 square meters) of Dacron surface area
- MASTS: 5 at 221 feet (67.5 meters)
- ENGINES: 4 diesel-electric generating sets, 2 electrical propulsion motor