Simon Wittenberg visits Riviera, the new high-end restaurant on St James’s Street in Mayfair, and billed as one of London’s most-anticipated openings of 2023.
Spain’s Zandi brothers, twins who are both on the Forbes 30 under 30 list, founded the Emerald Hospitality Group in 2018. Their portfolio counts the El Norte restaurant on Mayfair’s Dover Street, plus the Latin American-themed Zuaya and Como Garden – neighbouring eateries on Kensington High Street.
Alberto and Arian’s latest venture has now brought a taste of the Côte d’Azur to London in the form of “Riviera”, which occupies the former premises of Hakkasan’s Sake no Hana, after this well-known establishment graced St James’s Street for a decade up until October 2021.
The exterior of Riviera is rather unassuming, but once through the doors, diners are greeted by a large atrium, and two escalators lined with pieces from the Zandi brothers’ personal art collection, which take guests to and from the first floor where the main 170-cover restaurant is situated. To the left of the main entrance is the newly-opened bar and lounge – the perfect place to have a drink and relax after a meal.
The restaurant, which is almost shaped like a curve, is open from midday to 1.30 am seven days a week, so caters for the lunch crowd right through to those enjoying a night out. We visited on a Wednesday at 12:30, and there were already several tables occupied by business guests.
We were sat next to the tall floor-to-ceiling windows, which bathe this eatery in sunlight, and shine the spotlight on the translucent backdrop housing bottles of all shapes and sizes behind the bar.
To capture the true essence of the eastern coastal area of the south of France, synonymous with the likes of St. Tropez, Cannes, Antibes, Nice and Monaco, Riviera has been tastefully decorated with light pastel colours, terracotta pots and other plants and wicker ornaments that line the window sills, as well as comfortable banquettes with plush cushions, and nicely padded chairs, which sit up against the tables dressed with crisp white table cloths.
There’s also an open kitchen with fresh seafood on display, with the design of the tiles and counters forming the impression of a typical French villa.
Whilst perusing the extensive food menu, which lists the names of dishes in English and French – in keeping with the cuisine offered by Riviera, diners are serenaded by piped music, which is loud enough to drown out any street noise, but not so intrusive that it makes it difficult to have a conversation with another guest.
On the subject of beverages, there is also a sizeable wine list, complemented by an array of cocktails and a couple of refreshing mocktails (£11 each) named ‘Sexy French Popcorn’ with a thick, nutty cream topping and the mango and orange juice-based ‘Paradis de Mangue’, which both cast the mind to the lapping waves of the French coastline.
Back on the subject of the à la carte, and there are numerous hors d’oeuvres to choose from, with meat, fish and cheese-based dishes, and there’s everything from steak or tuna tartare to snails with garlic butter.
Dietary requirements can be accommodated by Riviera where possible, and I headed for the sumptuously smooth, and delicately sliced sea bass carpaccio (£17). This is a “melt in the mouth” experience, and with the added extra of Burrata whisps, this starter was heavenly and lived up to the high-end gastronomy that Riviera stands for.
My other half went for the smoked duck breast to kick-start her meal, which sat on a bed of endive salad (£14). This was an equally enjoyable dish, and it must be said that portions are generous, meaning diners are rewarded for their spending at Riviera. With a little more crusty bread to whet the palate, and the chance to admire the opulent surroundings, our mains duly arrived, thanks to the relatively swift and friendly service provided by our hosts.
I had decided on the moist and voluptuous fillet of turbot with a meunière sauce (consisting of brown butter, chopped parsley, and lemon), garnished with baby capers and chives, giving an added hint of tanginess to what was a superb dish that oozed freshness, highlighting the short wait between sea and plate.
My other half went for an option from ‘Les viandes’ – the carnivorous section of the menu. It took the form of a medium to well-done grilled beef fillet topped by a black pepper sauce, which she said was the best that she had ever tasted – a considerable compliment after dining at many high-end eateries across the capital during the past years.
Sides are needed with the mains because dishes arrive as they are with no added fanfare. We chose the French fries – £7 (which were a little on the salty side), and a small dish of nicely-prepared ratatouille (minus the feta) – £9, and with everything combined, this made for a more than adequate course.
For those who like to finish their meal on a sweet note, the dessert menu is a verbal account of what’s on offer – hence nothing is listed online to tantalise the taste buds. In fact, there are only three options available at a cost of £16, and no non-dairy alternatives, such as sorbet or a fruit salad, for example, so some diners may struggle here.
The choice is between a caramel-based dish, crème brûlée, and Tarte Tatin. With the latter being a firm favourite, it didn’t disappoint. A deep puff pastry base hosted slices of caramelised apple, on which a large sugar crisp and healthy whisp of Chantilly cream was balanced. When these four components combined on the spoon, there was only one word for it: Délicieux!
Gone were any signs of hunger, and what had arrived were memories of what was an excellent lunch from start to finish. Furthermore, having personally lived in this part of the south of France, and enjoyed and sampled a range of gastronomy, the Zandi brothers have certainly created another recipe for success in Mayfair.
With superb cuisine and a touch of summer sunshine to match on the day of our visit, reminiscent of the weather that you would find on the south coast of France, Riviera certainly has the wow factor and the “je ne sais quoi”. You could even imagine this being a meeting staple for the cast of the Netflix series “L’Agence / The Parisian Agency” if you have watched it. This is because Riviera is luxurious and a haven of French bliss above the bustling streets of London. Will we be returning? Absolument!
There’s still more to come from Riviera…
Following its formal launch, Riviera is going through an exciting phase at the moment with a 35-person outdoor roof terrace still to open; plus, there are complimentary cabaret evenings coming up on 16th June and 8th July 2023 to keep guests truly entertained.
Riviera – Where and How?
Riviera is located at 23 St James’s Street, London SW1A 1HA, United Kingdom. For more information, visit www.riviera-london.co.uk, or to make a booking, e-mail [email protected].
See photos of our visit to Riviera on the Luxurious Magazine Instagram page.
Read more restaurant reviews, culinary news and features here.
You must be logged in to post a comment.