While many associate the cathedral city of St Albans with bustling markets, unique architecture, and boutique shopping, it does have a lesser-known side: its ghostly history. From ethereal apparitions to paranormal experiences, there is much to discover here in the oldest city in Hertfordshire.
For more than 2,000 years, St Albans has been collecting stories of brave martyrs, bloody battles, gruesome murders, and tragic accidents. There is a never-ending collection of places to visit where guests can uncover these remarkable tales and enjoy spine-chilling history lessons.
Here is an insight into the excitement that awaits lovers of ghoulish fun…
Cathedral from Vintry (C) Cecelina Tornburg.
St Albans Cathedral
St Albans Cathedral is one of the city’s most famous haunted sites, where many tell tales of spooky sightings and inexplicable encounters. In 1944, at a time when firewatchers were stationed in the abbey to watch for bomb-related damage, teenager Basil patrolled the grounds by himself as he waited for his teammate to arrive.
The story goes that Basil came across a pair of hooded figures, a self-playing organ illuminated by candlelight, and a procession of chanting monks. When his colleague showed up, there was nothing to show for it except for the wisps of smoke from the mysteriously distinguished flame.
The White Hart Hotel. Photograph by Cecelina Tornberg.
The White Hart Hotel
Dating back to 1470, the White Hart Hotel is one of St Albans’ most haunted venues. Just minutes from the bustling centre of town, the historic inn really has seen it all. The pub’s comfortable interiors, welcoming rooms and delicious food are enough to attract visitors, but its hidden history is the cherry on the cake…
The ghost of a Victorian woman who broke her neck at the entrance to the hotel – supposedly having sat too high up in the cheap seats of her coach as it passed through the narrow archway – roams around the front of the building. Some even say they have seen the ghost of a St Albans Cathedral monk help himself to a pint from the bar downstairs and the spirit of a young girl who died in a fire on the site in 1832.
Fishpool Street
While St Albans Cathedral and the White Hart Hotel certainly stand out for their spooky histories, reports of ghost encounters don’t stop there. Fishpool Street is one of the most haunted passages in the city; sightings here have included a horse-drawn carriage transporting a well-dressed couple, a crying woman who accidentally smothered her baby in the 1700s, and shadowy figures inside a few of the private residences. The Lower Red Lion Inn at 36 Fishpool Street is equally infamous for unsettling noises and strange silhouettes.
Salisbury Hall
Seventeenth-century manor house Salisbury Hall on the city’s outskirts is well-known for its involvement with the de Havilland Aircraft Company. However, the attention is often stolen by phantom figures, including a Cavalier, a woman in a blue shawl and a mysterious ghost who has been spotted on several occasions emerging from the walls.
The Grange’s Lady in Grey
Built in 1764 for three times St Albans Mayor John Osborn, Grade II listed The Grange, now the Saint & Sinner has been reported as having a rather eerie resident. The ghostly apparition of a lady wearing a long grey dress has been reported, and it has been suggested she may be the ghost of Dorothy Osborn, daughter-in-law of Mayor Osborn, who is said to have committed suicide after discovering that her husband was having an affair.
The Cedar Tree
St Albans has haunted buildings galore, but what about haunted trees? The old Cedar Tree in Sumpter Yard has its fair share of mystery. Planted in 1805, the legend goes that walking clockwise around the trunk twelve times (one for each chime of the midnight bell) will mean you meet the love of your life, but should you choose to circle anti-clockwise, you will encounter the devil.
Some choir boys tested the rumour one dark night. As the bell tolled, they chose to run anti-clockwise. Suddenly, a figure dressed all in black moved quickly towards them, prompting a quick escape from the meddling group. However, it turned out to be a cloaked verger hurrying home from a late-night meeting, not that the boys stayed to find out.
The Wicked Lady
The Wicked Lady is a pub in the village of Sandridge (not far from St Albans) named after The Wicked Lady of Markyate. The eponymous legend was about a gentlewoman named Katherine Ferrers, who lived during the mid-1600s. The orphaned daughter of a noble household, Ferrers was the sole heir to her family’s estates when she was married at age 13 to her stepfather’s nephew. Her husband took control of her fortune and whittled much of it away.
They say Ferrers went on to become a highwaywoman in order to maintain her disappearing fortune. She is said to have been shot near the site of the modern-day pub and died of the injuries she sustained. The Wicked Lady is now a local legend and the inspiration for many books and films.
Among a host of other sightings, a woman in her car passing through the city once saw the infamous highwaywoman galloping in front of her. In 1970, the owner of The Wicked Lady claimed to have heard booming hooves racing past him but couldn’t see the accompanying horses.
Ghosts and Ghouls walking tour
In the run-up to Halloween, St Albans Tour Guides begins its Ghosts and Ghouls walking tour, which continues during the winter months. The city’s knowledgeable volunteers—each qualified to either Blue Badge or Green Badge level within the Institute of Tourist Guiding—relate terrifying tales of unusual encounters and mysterious characters as they guide you through the cobbled streets of the city. Wrap up warm and head out to discover the histories of St Albans’ most infamous residents.
Terry Turner, Chair of St Albans Tour Guides, says, “A town as old as St Albans has a host of dark alleyways, historic inns and ancient churches. Many are hiding tales of ghostly murmurings and horrid hauntings. As the nights draw in, people love to join our guides on a walk of spooky discovery, hearing of ghosts and ghouls by the very buildings and shadowed lanes they are said to haunt. Join us if you dare.”
Find your St Albans at www.EnjoyStAlbans.com.
Cathedral – West End. Photography ©Dave Wood.
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