Simon Wittenberg visits the five-star hotel in the heart of London’s St James to be among the first to sample their newly-launched four-course tea that breaks with tradition.
Afternoon tea is a quintessentially British affair, and there are many luxury hotels across the country that deliver some of the country’s finest experiences, having crafted their own interpretations and masterpieces.
DUKES London, one of the capital’s most iconic luxury boutique hotels, which is tucked away behind the bustling streets of Mayfair, has turned tradition on its head by spinning tea into a carefully curated four-course menu in collaboration with Louis Roederer champagne and JP’s Originals (a supplier of premium whole-leaf teas), and have aptly named it ‘Afternoon Curiosity’. Specific dietary requirements can be accommodated, meaning the sweet and savoury options can be substituted by Executive Chef Nigel Mendham and his team, as needed.
This five-star DUKES London establishment, which is steeped in history, has dispensed with the conventional tiered cake stand, and instead replaced it with a series of plates bearing some delicious delicacies, which arrive in sequence. In fact, each one has been designed to take guests on a culinary journey, with a focus on the elements of flavour, presentation, and engagement, to deliver a memorable occasion for even the most discerning of afternoon tea connoisseurs.
Guests dine in the opulent and cosy surroundings of the DUKES hotel’s iconic British heritage-style Drawing Room, which sits adjacent to the reception area. It’s furnished with banquette-style and high-back seating and a series of small tables, with tasteful vintage artwork and an ornate fireplace completing a look and feel from yesteryear.
To kick the palate into action, the tea opens with a delightful amuse-bouche of Eggs Drumkilbo – a favourite of the late Queen Mother and a reflection of this hotel’s royal connections.
The vegetarian option, which we tried, takes the form of a flavoursome houmous and a sprinkling of feta cheese, surrounded by some green edamame beans. Each of the four chapters of ‘Afternoon Curiosity’ has been paired with a specific variety of tea, and the type served at this stage is a classic English breakfast.
After a brief pause, the amuse-bouche is followed by a round of savoury pastries, and there is a recommended order to follow here as you build up to the crescendo – a ‘traditional’ light and airy egg mayonnaise sandwich with boiled quail eggs and rich truffle shavings.
Before you get there, guests can enjoy a smoked salmon and cottage cheese tart with a thick pastry crust, which then gives way to a leek and cheddar cheese muffin coated with Parmesan cheese, which has a delicious soft fig relish centre as a clever, sweet contrast.
Third in line is the upside-down beetroot and goat cheese cone with dried onion flakes, which offer a creamy concoction with an element of tanginess. Each of these creations is quite filling, so the trick here is to pace yourself to ensure you have enough space as you venture through the culinary journey at DUKES London.
Served with a floral rose chai tea, the third course showcases a ‘Flight of Scones’, with three unique flavour combinations paired with condiments crafted to enhance their delicate notes. First up is a camomile scone with salted vanilla butter, and next to this sits a lavender-infused scone with a mound of crème pâtissière and a honey centre, before culminating with a sweet clotted strawberry cream, which in our opinion, was the best of the three spreadable toppings.
In fact, ‘Afternoon Curiosity’ closes with a warming spiced chai with fiery ginger and sweet cardamom and further gastronomic delights in the form of the indulgent dessert course, which offers sweet treats and a touch of theatre. With this more ‘tactile’ experience, and paired with a sweeter Louis Roederer Champagne, our host poured a warm chocolate sauce over the awaiting fondant tart.
An hourglass, which looks like it is full of cocoa powder, was then activated – a countdown of five minutes. Once all the ‘sand’ reaches the bottom, it’s then time to lift off the casing around the chocolate fondant to let it seep out onto the plate and merge with the dried raspberry flakes to create a spectacular dessert.
The other delicious cakes on offer, which were just as impressive, were a lemon, coconut and basil slice on a biscuit base, a sticky date tower with gold leaf, and a deconstructed pavlova, where a strawberry crisp was delicately perched on whisps of meringue.
In summary…
This iteration of afternoon tea at DUKES London is a feast for the senses, where each of the four chapters see classic and modern concepts fuse seamlessly together to deliver a unique take on this culinary institution, which has been firmly embedded in British tradition for centuries.
It’s a clever twist on convention and is also refreshing to sample a break from the norm and enjoy something that has never been done before rather than simply being a formula that you would readily expect. ‘Afternoon Curiosity’ is certainly fit for royalty, Dukes and Duchesses, and, of course, anyone looking to enjoy an ‘out-standing’ afternoon tea in one of London’s most prestigious districts.
DUKES London’s ‘Afternoon Curiosity’ – Where and How?
Prices for ‘Afternoon Curiosity’ start at £65 per person, with options to add to the experience with sparkling tea or a glass of Louis Roederer Champagne for a supplement. For more information or to make a booking, visit www.dukeshotel.com/drawing-room.html.
See highlights from our visit to DUKES London on the Luxurious Magazine Instagram page.
Read the review of our recent stay at DUKES London here.