The first decade of the 21st century has already produced three superb vintages – 2000, 2005 and 2009, so perhaps it was understandable that the Bordelais, not normally reticent in proclaiming ‘vintages of the century’, remained unusually quiet about the potential of 2010. However, after the wines had been presented to the world at the annual tastings held at the beginning of April, it was clear that many exceptional wines had been made. So we now have wonderful back to back vintages in 2009 and 2010, although they are very different in character. By Richard Harvey of Bonhams
ST ESTEPHE
Chateau Calon-Segur
86% CS, 12% M, 2% PV, 13.75% alc. Much lower yield, smaller berries and therefore much more concentrated than 2009. Powerful yet elegant, superb – 17.5/20
Chateau Cos d’Estournel
78% CS, 19% M, 2% CF, 1%PV, 14.5% alc. Intense colour with roasted coffee aromas. Very ripe fruit, firm but integrated tannins, concentrated – a blockbuster – 17/20
Pagodes de Cos, 2nd wine, 62% CS, 38% M, 14% alc. Vibrant, sweet fruit – mulberries, soft and well-balanced
Goulee, 80% CS, 20% M, 13.75% alc. Very fresh fruit – crushed raspberries, fine tannins, quite forward and delicious
Chateau Montrose
53% CS, 37% M, 9% CF, 1% PV; 13.8% alc. Plenty of ripe, sweet fruit with good acidity and balanced tannins. Finesse rather than blockbuster – 17/20
Les Ormes de Pez
57% CS, 34% M, 7% CF, 2% PV. Sweet and fragrant, well-balanced oak (40% new) and tannins – 16/20
PAUILLAC
d’Armailhac
60% CS, 23% M, 15% CF, 2% PV. Aromas of black cherries and coffee, lots of substance, extract, concentrated and powerful – 15.5/20
Chateau Clerc Milon
50% CS, 36% M, 11% CF, 2% PV, 1% C. Intense fruit- raspberry aromas, very rich, spicy, concentrated, robust with good length – 16.5/20
Chateau Duhart-Milon
73% CS, 27% M. Roasted coffee aromas, very ripe fruit, fine tannins, supple & rounded, powerful with high alcohol – 17/20
Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse
Very ripe, sweet fruit – prunes, spicy, firm tannins, a touch too extracted, but otherwise well-structured – 15/20
Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste
83% CS, 17% M, 13.5% alc. Rich, ripe, plummy fruit, slightly jammy, firm but integrated tannins, robust – 15/20
Lacoste Borie,
2nd wine, 62% CS, 32% M, 6% CF, 13.5 alc. Sweet fruit, ripe tannins, well-structured
Chateau Haut Batailley
78% CS, 22% M, 13.5%alc. Perfumed nose, very powerful, concentrated, sweet fruit – plums, frim but integrated tannins, fine balance – 16/20
Chateau Lafite Rothschild
87% CS, 13% M. Initially very ripe fruit flavours – mulberries, roasted coffee, rich, spicy, ripe tannins, intense, power & complexity. A complete wine – 19/20
Carruades de Lafite,
50% CS, 43% M, 5% CF, 2 % PV. Sweet, jammy fruit, very ripe, concentrated, powerful but still still rounded & supple – 16/20
Chateau Latour
90% CS, 9% M, 1% CF & PV, 14.5% alc (14% in 2009). Intense colour, ripe, spicy, vibrant fruit – prunes, roasted coffeee, leather, so rich, powerful, & complex, enormous depth of flavour, a complete wine – 19.5/20
Les Forts de Latour,
73% CS, 25% M, 2% PV, 14.5% alc. Ripe, plummy fruit, rich & fresh but also very concentrated with tremendous power & alcohol – 18/20
Chateau Lynch-Bages
79% CS, 19% M, 2% CF, 1% PV. Very aromatic, sweet red fruits, vibrant, fresh acidity, sweet tannins, well-balanced, stylish – 17.5/20
Chateau Mouton Rothschild
94% CS, 6% M. Almost over-ripe fruit, quite extracted, firm tannins, chewy. Concentrated, powerful, four-square – 17/20
Le Petit Mouton
68% CS, 24% m, 8% CF. Very ripe fruit with rounded, well-integrated tannins, well-balanced with good length – 16/20
Chateau Pichon Lalande
66% CS, 24% M, 7% CF, 3% PV, 13.5% alc. Ripe, spicy red fruits, quite mature & forward, tending to elegance rather than power
Reserve de la Comtesse,
51% CS, 46% M, 3% PV, 13.5% alc. Ripe, vibrant fruit flavours, fresh, forward, already approachable
Chateau Pontet-Canet
65% CS, 30% M, 4% CF, 1% PV; the first vintage to be certified biodynamic. Full of ripe, plummy fruit, fresh acidity, ripe and rounded tannins. Great elegance and length – 18.5/20
ST JULIEN
Chateau Beychevelle
54% CS, 38% M, 5% CF, 3% PV, 14.3% alc. Vibrant, sweet, ripe fruit, fresh acidity, fine tannins, well-balanced, stylish – 17/20
Clos du Marquis
75% CS, 17% M, 8% CF, 13.6% alc. Ripe, red berry fruit, firm tannins, high alcohol, concentrated, powerful but remains balanced, for the long-term – 17/20
Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou
90% CS, 10% M, 13.9% alc. Intense raspberry fruit, very ripe, almost jammy, perfumed, very fine tannins, very supple, powerful yet elegant, very fine – 18/20
Chateau Gloria
63% CS, 26% M, 6% PV, 5% CF. Intense blackcurrant fruit, soft tannins, supple & rounded. Very good – 16/20
Chateau Gruaud Larose
Fresh, vibrant fruit – raspberries, well-integrated tannins, some new oak, classy – 17/20
Chateau Langoa Barton
73% CS, 17% M, 10% CF. Very sweet, rich, almost jammy fruit, firm, but supple tannins, rounded, powerful – 16/20
Chateau Leoville Barton
77% CS, 21% M, 2% CF. Very concentrated, rich & powerful, sweet, plummy fruit, firm but integrated tannins, new oak, will need time – 17/20
Chateau Leoville Las Cases
82% CS, 10% M, 8% CF, 13.7% alc. Roasted coffee aromas, sweet, spicy fruit – mulberries, very rich and concentrated, intense, immense depth and length of flavour. Superb – 18.5/20
Le Petit Lion,
52% CS, 38% M, 5% CF, 5% PV, 13.7% alc. Vibrant, sweet red-berry fruit, soft rounded, well-balanced, forward
Chateau Leoville Poyferre
61% CS, 30% M, 6% PV, 3% CF, 14% alc. Sweet fruit & new oak aromas, rich, powerful, ripe red berry fruit, firm but ripe tannins, rounded, great depth & concentration – 18/20
Chateau Moulin Riche
59% CS, 30% M, 11% PV, 13.5% alc. Sweet, vibrant fruit, rich, concentrated but still supple and quite forward. Delicious – 16/20
MARGAUX
Chateau Brane Cantenac
Rich, sweet, plummy fruit, vibrant, firm but integrated tannins, robust, great depth and length of flavour – 16/20
Chateau Giscours
Intense colour, sweet blackcurrant fruit, new oak, fine tannins, rounded, well-structured. Classy – 17/20
Chateau Margaux
90% CS, 7% M, 1.5% CF, 1.5% PV, 13.5% alc. Fresh, vibrant, sweet red fruits, fine, ripe tannins, touch of new oak, soft, rounded, great length, elegance & finesse – 19/20
Pavillon Rouge,
66% CS, 30% M, 4% PV, 14% alc. Very ripe, almost jammy, fruit, ripe tannins, concentrated yet supple and approachable. Classy – 17/20
Chateau Marquis de Terme
Sweet, vibrant, blackcurrant fruit, firm, integrated tannins, well-balanced. Good – 16.5/20
Chateau Palmer
54% M, 40% CS, 6% PV, 14.5% alc. Intense colour, sweet, plummy fruit, aromatic, fresh, ripe tannins, powerful and solid but not extracted – 17.5/20
Alter Ego,
51% CS, 49% M, 14.4% alc. Rich, concentrated, well-structured, very good second wine
PESSAC-LEOGNAN
Domaine de Chevalier
Very aromatic nose – violets, intense, sweet fruit flavours, concentrated, rich & powerful. Classy – 17/20
Chateau de Fieuzal
Ripe, spicy fruit – stewed plums, fully integrated tannins, rounded – 15.5/20
Chateau Haut-Bailly
Sweet, plummy fruit, fresh acidity, silky & rounded, elegant & stylish – 16/20
Chateau Haut-Brion
57% CS, 23% M, 20% CF, 14.6% alc. Dried fruit flavours but still very fresh, robust, plenty of extract, ripe tannins – 18/20
Le Clarence de Haut-Brion,
52% M, 35% CS, 10% CF, 2% PV, 14.4% alc. Sweet, almost jammy fruit, a touch dry, well-structured, very much a lesser copy of the Grand Vin- 16/20
Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion
62% CS, 37% M, 1 % CF, 15% alc. Vibrant, sweet fruit – mulberries, soft, ripe tannins, alcoholic, but incredibly well put-together and balanced. Exudes finesse – 18.5/20
La Chapelle de la Mission,
47% CS, 27% M, 26% CF, 14.8% alc. Sweet, plumy fruit, touch of new oak, fine tannins, robust yet still supple, fine balance & length. Superb second wine – 16.5/20
Chateau Pape Clement
Plenty of new oak & sweet red fruit flavours, fine, integrated tannins, rounded. Classy – 16.5/20
POMEROL
Chateau La Conseillante
80% M, 20% CF, 14.5% alc. Intense, vibrant raspberry fruit, well-integrated tannins, rich, rounded, supple, fine balance – 17.5/20
Chateau L’Eglise Clinet
90% M, 10% CF, 14.5% alc. Intense, vibrant, fresh fruit, sweet but not jammy, robust, concentrated and powerful – 17.5/20
Chateau L’Evangile
89% M. 11% CF, 14.7% alc. Ripe blackcurrants on nose, very ripe, vibrant fruit on palate, well-integrated tannins, rounded and beautifully balanced – 18/20
Petrus
100 % M, 14.5% alc. Very rich & concentrated, sweet but not over-ripe fruit, finely balanced tannins, powerful yet still elegant. Superb – 19/20
Vieux Chateau Certan
86% M, 8% CF, 6% CS, 14.5% alc. (13.9% in 2009) Rich, sweet fruit & lovely fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rounded, powerful & elegant with great finesse – 18/20
ST EMILION
Chateau Angelus
Intense colour, roasted coffee flavours, very solid & powerful. A massive wine – 17.5/20
Chateau Berliquet
Fresh, vibrant, sweet, plummy fruit, good acidity, well-balanced – 16/20
Chateau Cheval Blanc
56% CF, 44% M, 14.5% alc. (13.5% in 2009) Very floral, sweet fruit, silky, supple & rounded despite high extract & firm tannins, great length. Very stylish – 19/20
Le Petit Cheval,
75% M, 25% CF, 14.5% alc. (20% of production – 2009 = 60%), lots of sweet, spicy fruit – mulberries, high alcohol & tannic, but remains balanced
Chateau La Dominique
Intense & vibrant, sweet, plummy fruit, fresh acidity, very finely structured – 17/20
Chateau Moulin St Georges
80% M, 20% CF Very concentrated with sweet, jammy fruit, high in both alcohol & tannin – a real blockbuster